We share the article by Pasquale Porcelli, published in the “Sapori in Tavola” section of Corriere del Mezzogiorno.
Among the native Apulian grape varieties, Nero di Troia is certainly the least known; unlike Negroamaro and Primitivo, it has never received the same media attention as its regional counterparts. Yet, it lacks nothing — in fact, it embodies some truly distinctive traits, not necessarily better, but simply different from those of the other two historic Apulian grapes.
For its characteristics, we could consider it the most “northern” of the Apulians. It’s true that its various winemaking interpretations sometimes suffer from inconsistency, which makes it hard to find clear tasting benchmarks. However, with a more attentive tasting, a common thread can indeed be found.
Take Cinquefoglie by Cantine Lamonarca, a Castel del Monte DOC made entirely from Nero di Troia. The style is modern — that kind of modernity that aims for wines that are smooth, free of harsh edges, capable of creating a pleasant relationship with food, without overpowering it — wines that are simply good companions at the table.
Yet Cinquefoglie is far from ordinary or lacking character. It shows a beautiful ruby-red color with violet hues; its fruity aromas revolve around cherry, blackberry, and blueberry, with subtle hints of sweet spices and balsamic notes. On the palate, it is soft and balanced, with a fruit-forward vein echoing the nose. A pleasant acidity sustains the tasting, while the typical tannins of the variety are well-managed and harmonious, completing a well-crafted profile.
This wine, part of Lamonarca’s new project, is still at the beginning of its journey — but its future surely promises great success within its category.
